2013年9月8日 星期日

[旅行] 挪威縮影四日行 9/5-8 Norway Sep. 5-8, 2013

這次挪威行是我到瑞典之後的第一次出國旅行,一開始從訂機票到訂車票都是戰戰兢兢。好在挪威跟瑞典一樣治安良好,當然不代表可以掉以輕心,但至少比較安心。然而,挪威是全世界物價數一數二昂貴的國家,要有心理準備。

The trip to Norway is the first time for me to leave Sweden in my exchange life. That's why I was especially cautious about every plan of the trip. It is good that Norway is a safe country, but it doesn't mean that we can be careless. Still, the low crime rate there makes me less worried. Also, Noway is one of the most expensive places in the world, so be prepared before you come.



行程分享 Itinerary:
主要參考Norway in a nutshell,只是因為部分票券有學生票,所以自己分開訂可以較便宜。
I planned my trip according to "Norway in a nutshell". Some tickets include a student price, which can't be obtained by buying the package, so I decided to book them separately.

行程大綱 Brief Itinerary

  1. 9/4 22:00 Uppsala--(bus booked through SJ)-->Oslo (arrive in morning)
  2. 9/5 city tour in Oslo (one day ticket include all transportation 80 kr bought in Ruter near train station) Stay in Sentrum pensjonat hostel
  3. 9/6 6:00 Oslo--(miniprice tickets booked in advance)-->Myrdal--(tickets booked on board)-->Flåm
    Stay in Brekke Gard Hostel
  4. 9/7 8:00  ferry to Gudvangen (tickets booked 9/6 in Flåm tourist center, ask for students tickets)-->bus to Voss (tickets booked 9/6 in Flåm tourist center)---->train to Bergen (tickets bought at train station, beware of opening ours, and ask for student tickets)----> night view in Bergen Stay in Bergen Host's place
  5. 9/8 City tour in Bergen----> Flight back to Sweden

9/4 晚上從Uppsala搭夜車到Oslo,搭乘巴士,在SJ網站上購票(搜尋時請在"show express bus"打勾),可以選擇讓他寄簡訊到手機,就不用印車票。因為到Oslo也可以搭火車,所以請看清楚自己買的到底是火車票還是巴士票,若是巴士票請查好是在第幾月台。
On 9/4, we took a night bus from Uppsala to Oslo. We booked the tickets in advance on SJ website (by ticking the "show express bus" box when searching), and we selected to deliver the tickets by SMS so that we don't need to print the tickets. One can also travel to Oslo by train, so do check whether you booked a train ticket or bus ticket. If it is a bus ticket, please check which platform it is, since it won't be shown on the ticket or anywhere else, and the platforms are quite far away from one another.

9/5早上抵達Oslo,隨後進行市區遊覽。巴士站離火車站不遠,火車站旁邊有個寫著ruter的售票處,可以進去購買一日券,80kr包含所有市區交通,注意連船都可以搭。270kr則是除了所有交通還包含博物館。我們當時因為前一天搭夜車太疲倦,不打算跑太多博物館,選擇80kr的方案。Oslo有孟克150年展覽,國家藝廊也有孟克畫作展出,推薦去看。Oslo晚上車站附近龍蛇雜處,建議不要單獨在那裏逗留。
We arrived at Oslo on 9/5 and then started our city tour. The bus station is not far from the train station. Beside the train station, there is a ticket selling booth called "ruter". We got a 80kr one day ticket, including all transportation, even boats. There is also a 270kr one which includes all transportation and museum. We took a night train the previous night so we decided not to visit so many museums. There was a 150 year Munch exhibition, in which we saw the famous artwork Skrik.




9/6一早搭乘火車至Myrdal(事先上網訂票,愈早訂愈便宜,有mini price優惠票),這段火車有全世界最美的高山火車之稱,優惠票通常是超及早的票,但建議大家不要睡覺,應該沿路欣賞風景。抵達後,從Myrdal轉乘小火車到Flåm,車票於上車後向列車長購買,沒有學生票,但我們表明我們是學生之後,可愛的列車長伯伯就給我們打折了XD。小火車沿途風景比剛剛那段更為優美,沿途也有三種語言的影片介紹。沿途經過一個壯麗的瀑布時,車長還讓我們下車觀賞拍照。Flåm是個如詩如畫的山中峽灣小鎮,因為峽灣而聞名於世。可先去旅遊中心問問有什麼行程推薦。我們原本計劃的行程就是由Flåm搭船到Gudvangen,沿途欣賞峽灣,再由Gudvagen搭公車到Voss。印象中船票有學生票,其他的票都可以問問,有折扣。但是我們已經定了Flåm的住宿,不想做來回的船,所以把搭船和搭車延到明天。
On 9/6, we took a train from Oslo to Myrdal (tickets booked in advance, there is so called mini price tickets). This journey is said to be the most beautiful high altitude train journey in the world, so be sure to appreciate the beautiful scenery along the way. After we arrived at Myrdal, we changed to a small mountain train bound for Flåm, and tickets are bought on board. There is no student tickets, but the nice ticket salesman gave us a discount because we were at the age of his son. This journey is also known for its stunning scenery, and there is introduction in three languages of the fjord along the way. We passed by a spectacular waterfall, where the train stopped to allow everyone to take pictures. Finally, we arrived at our destination Flåm. Flåm is a little village in the mountains known for its stunning scenery. You can go to the tourist center to ask for some recommendations for activities there.


離開旅遊中心,已經舟車勞頓的我們想要走到旅館,拿了地圖卻不幸走了反方向,愈走愈荒涼,終於興起要問人的念頭,但可惜找不到半個人。眼看天色就要轉黑,發現前方岸邊有個小屋,像是為捕魚搭的,裡面似乎有人!我們立刻走向前去,從大馬路旁走下,超級陡的坡度,深怕自己滑倒。我們把他們叫住,一如預期,兩位北歐捕魚人英文都相當流利,告訴我們說我們要走40分鐘回頭路才能抵達。他們還問了我們從哪裡來,當她聽到台灣,驚訝了說:Wow, I am impressed!
After we left the tourist center, we walked back to the hostel. Unfortunately, we figured the wrong direction, and the far we walked, the bleaker the scenery. We tried to find a person to ask for directions, but there weren't any people. As the sky became darker, we discovered that there was a small wooden house near the water. The wooden house seemed to be built for fish catching, and there seemed to be someone inside! We went ahead, off the roads, and down a little slope to close to the water, and went near the house. The two fishermen inside were really fluent in English, and told us that we were in the opposite direction. It would take us 40 minutes to walk back. When they knew that we came from Taiwan, they were kind of shocked that we came from such a remote place, and told us that they were impressed!

我們好不容易回頭走到旅館,到了旅館的那一刻,旅館女主人超級熱情的迎接我們。那是個坐落在小鎮的美麗木屋,彷彿進入童話世界。我們筋疲力盡的放下行李,女主人卻表示該旅館沒有供餐,但我們可以盡情享用廚房。可是唯一的超市在20分鐘路程的市中心啊!而且超市八點就關門了!我們出了門,到了旅館旁邊的小瀑布,但礙於趕著趕超市關門,我們趕緊離開衝向超市。挪威物價非常高,只有乳製品和麵包稍微便宜一點,於是我們就買了義大利麵跟醬自製晚餐,而麵包和牛奶就是隔天早餐了。
Finally, we arrived in the hostel. The madam there was hospitable. The hostel is a wooden house in the village, and the atmosphere made me think of a fairy tale. After we settled down, we realized that there were no restaurants in the hostel. There was a kitchen, though. That means that we have to buy the food from a supermarket, but the only supermarket was 20 minute walk away, and it closes at 20:00. We reluctantly went out again, and didn't have time to admire the beauty of a nearby waterfall because we were really worried that the supermarket will be closed. The price is Norway is super high, so we only bought some spaghetti for dinner and some milk and bread for breakfast of the next morning.



9/7照著我們前一天的規劃,一早搭上往Gudvangen的船。沿途風景優美,恍如置身仙境,船上的介紹相當詳細,甚至有中文。不過也有人去的時間天氣不佳,只能在大霧中渡過。所以建議大家不要在Gudvagen停靠時,真的被這個以峽灣聞名的小鎮吸引。雖然九月初已經是夏末,但這裡還是擠了滿滿的遊客。我們非常慶幸搭了早班船,我可以想像午後時多麼擁擠。
On 9/7, we took the ferry from Flåm to Gudvangen and appreciate the beauty of the fjords along the way. Then, we took a bus from Gudvagen to Voss. There are student tickets for ferry. Although September is already the end of the tour season, these sites were still packed with tourists. We were glad that we took the early ferry because more and more tourists approached later in the day.



在Gudvangen短暫停留後,我們乘坐巴士(在Flåm一並和船票買好)搭車到Voss。沿途風景一樣相當秀麗,而沿路經過不少髮夾彎,令人心驚膽戰。不過顯然他們司機都受過專業訓練,開起車來都相當安穩,沿途經過瀑布還像我們介紹,而車子本身也相當新,設備良好,對於搭過尼泊爾可怕的超載車開在伸手不見五指的山區的我,顯然是小巫見大巫。
After our short stay in Gudvangen, we took the bus to Voss. The scenery along the way was really beautiful, and there were many heart-startling turns along the way since it was a mountain road. The drivers seemed quite professional so the ride was nice and safe. As I have traveled on the bus to the deep mountains of Nepal, this ride to Voss was nothing compared to that.

抵達Voss之後,我們先到車站買車票,一樣有學生票,而且不限定時間。下午有不少班火車往Bergen,所以我們選擇先去吃飯。
After we arrived at Voss, we went to the station to buy tickets to Bergen. There were student tickets.



下午花了一些時間在Voss海邊看風景散心,秋風微涼,相當愜意。接著,我們便搭乘火車前往挪威第二大城Bergen。
We spent some time in the sea shore of Voss in the afternoon. The autumn wind was mild and we were relaxed. Then, we took the train to the second largest city in Norway, Bergen.

雖然是第二大城,但許多挪威人認為這才是有挪威特色的城市。首都奧斯陸因為現代化少了挪威感,而Bergen則因為山環水抱保有了挪威傳統海港漁村文化。的確,Bergen這個字據Host所說是七座山的意思,幾乎所有的建築都是依著山而建造。而Bergen又靠海邊,所以魚市場相當聞名。
Although it is the second largest city, many Norwegians told us that they think it is the city that has the most Norwegian culture. The capital, Oslo, is too modern, but by contrast, Bergen preserved most of the fishering culture since it is a city around the mountains and close to the sea. Bergen, in Norwegian, means seven mountains. The whole city is constructed along the mountain hills. It is also close to the sea, so the fish market there is really famous.

在火車站和Host會面後,由Host領軍,帶我們遊覽Bergen夜景。Host的工作是在輔導身心障礙的小朋友,他對我們相當熱情友善,他也是位土生土長的Bergen人。
After we met our couch surf host at the train station, the host showed us the stunning night view of Bergen. The job of the host was a teacher of disabled children. The host was from Bergen, grew up here and worked here. He was really enthusiastic and nice.

山中之城在夜色中格外寧靜,從海的一側看過去,家戶燈火閃爍,那是相機拍不出的迷人。好幾次,我們穿過毫無路燈的街道,幸虧有Host的陪伴,若只有我們自己,絕對無法來到。在挪威,雖然物價奇高,但卻是我Couch Surf最多次的地方,感謝挪威人的友善熱情。
Night Bergen was serene. We saw the city from the other side of the water. Lights were shimmering. Sad that my basic camera couldn't capture the beauty. The way to this viewpoint was totally dark without any street lights. We couldn't have made it here if we weren't with the host. In Norway, although the price is crazily high, we were lucky to meet so many nice and hospitable host.



9/8終於來到旅程的最後一天,我們都相當疲累,但卻不減旅遊興致。今天同樣由Host帶領,我們在Bergen市區遊覽。中午吃了傳統的挪威料理,我點了麋鹿肉,朋友點了「現撈」魚。當天適逢美食節,我們穿梭在大小攤位中試吃,彷彿回到了台灣的夜市。而Bergen城在白天看來也相當優雅,除了教堂,還有許多古老的建築。下午我們告別Host搭上往機場的巴士,飛回瑞典。機場巴士有兩家,一家似乎只能收現,另外一家要事先上網預訂,感謝Host提供電腦讓我們這些沒有挪威克朗只用刷卡的旅客得以順利回家。
Finally we were at the last day of our trip. The host showed us around the city center of Bergen. We had some traditional food for lunch. I ordered reindeer meat and my friend ordered 'today's catch' fish. We encountered the food festival, and there were food stands along the street. It was like the night markets in Taiwan! Bergen was a really nice and elegant city. We visited the churches and some old buildings. In the afternoon, we took the bus to the airport. There were only two bus companies to the airport, and one can only accept cash, while the other only accepts online reserving. We were happy that the host reminded us about this, and lent his computer for us to online reserve since we only had cards, and didn't have a penny of cash.

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